Once you’ve mastered the basics of surfing, it’s time to move on to the next level. Action Sports Maui provides a surfing handbook here that can help make surfing easier for you, but for now, let’s focus specifically on how to catch the wave from the surfing takeoff zone.
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Beginning Surfer Catches the Wave from the Takeoff Zone | photo by Jim Lawlor
How to Catch the Wave from the Surfing Takeoff Zone
“Where you position yourself to take off on the wave will depend on your skill level, the wave, and your paddling strength.
Novice surfers have the least paddling power. So novice surfers will usually position themselves more on the inside of the break closer to shore and catch the broken part of the wave. This called a late takeoff. (in the non -critical part of the wave). The whitewater gives the most push from behind. The novice does not need to paddle very mush to catch the wave. Sometimes just getting in front of the whitewater is enough to catch a wave. Taking off on the inside means that you do not have to deal with the sudden rush of the wave breaking and the steep face of the wave. The wave is slower closer to shore and is has less vertical force. The novice has to take care not to nosedive the board. Nose-diving will occur if the surfer is too far forward, or if they do not paddle for the wave.
Intermediates surfers will want to start further out, away from shore, where the wave starts to break. if the wave is spilling or crumbling they can get just inside the edge of the whitewater. This will give them a longer ride. And it will give them more chance of getting onto the face of the wave. The tradeoff is that they will have to paddle harder to catch the wave. The ideal takeoff point is to get get just inside the whitewater, but towards the shoulder. Intermediates can get to their feet earlier, and trim the board towards the shoulder. Moving across the wave means they can get more speed and stay in the steeper pocket of the wave. They should try to get ahead of the whitewater and head for the open face of the wave. Steering and turning in the whitewater is difficult because the board does not grip the turbulent and aerated water so well.
Advanced Surfers will tend to favor the early takeoff. To take off early you will be positioned just outside the whitewater. Starting to paddle early when the wave is more full and less steep. The surfer builds momentum and as the wave pitches up they can pop up to their feet before the wave breaks. Getting onto a wave early will give you more speed and more ability to get positioned to take the drop as the wave breaks. The surfer can then ride in the pocket of the wave in the steepest most critical parts of the wave. This gives them the ability to ride the most powerful part of the wave, if they want to.” Read the advice from Action Sports in Maui.
The locals and the more experienced surfers are more likely to help you learn how to catch the wave from the surfing takeoff zone if you show good surf etiquette. For more in-depth information on surf lineup etiquette, click here. What’s your worst experience in the lineup? Share it here for all to learn from.
